Norika and O.A. Chu with imperial prawns at Mr. Chu's Hong Kong Cuisine.
Mr. Chu's Hong Kong Cuisine
- 890 Washington Ave.
- South Beach, FL 33139
- 305-538-8424
- Report an error
- $$$, $20 - $40
- Asian, Chinese, Dim Sum
- Menu
Classic openers include exceptionally delicate steamed shrimp and pork dumplings, chicken lettuce wraps with peanut-topped ground chicken and a simple ginger, scallion and clam soup. Stunningly simple silverback fish is perfection in a bowl. Dim sum, made fresh and served from rolling carts, is a must-try on weekends.
I've been hearing rumors about Mr. Chow opening on the Beach since before Madonna moved out of Miami, so when I saw the tiny sign in Chinese script on the door of the old Thai Toni's, I thought the venerable international eatery with outposts in L.A. and New York was finally on its way.
But it isn't Michael Chow who has taken over the gorgeous red and gold dining room; it's O.A. Chu, who set up the kitchens at Westchester's renowned Tropical Chinese and Miami's Tony Chan's Water Club. Tony and Lilly Takarada (Toni's Sushi, World Resource Café) are still owners, but Chu has a stake, too, along with his name on the door: Mr Chu's Hong Kong Cuisine.
The elegant new digs are dominated by enormous, hand-painted lanterns dangling from the ceiling like giant kites with red-tassel tails. Crisp white linens look sharp against the highly polished bamboo floors. The most coveted seats are the banquettes along the walls softened by overstuffed red pillows and the private ''VIP'' rooms that are yours for the asking even if you didn't just come out with a music video. Call in advance to request one.
The gracious service and refined and pricey fare hit the same high mark. Classic openers include exceptionally delicate steamed shrimp and pork dumplings, chicken lettuce wraps with peanut-topped ground chicken and a simple ginger, scallion and clam soup.
Stunningly simple silverback fish is perfection in a bowl. Dozens of crunchy minnow-like fish are doused with salt and Szechwan pepper and wok fried until they are as crispy and hot as the best French fries you've ever had.
A simple vegetable dish best shared with others at the table is the crunchy, vibrantly green, stir-fried string beans in a scorchingly hot brown sauce with lots of garlic.
One of the best entrees may be overlooked by those (like me) who normally shun that strange soy concoction known as tofu. Here, the house-made tofu is as light as cotton candy and stuffed with a sweet, tender mound of chopped shrimp.
Steamed whole snapper, served with smoky soy sauce and ringlets of scallions and cilantro, has beautifully light, almost fluffy meat.
The Peking duck two ways is carved at the table for a dramatic and elegant presentation. The crunchy skin is sliced off and rolled into tiny cones in light pancakes with a dab of hoisin sauce and crunchy scallions. The second course, stir-fried with vegetables, was deliciously rich with lots of dark, oily meat and crunchy vegetables.
Curry coconut chicken in a hot clay pot with mushrooms, carrots, onion, ginger, scallion and lemon grass is a bit watery but still flavorful and tender.
Though the menu advertises jasmine rice, the chef actually uses a more expensive short-grained Japanese variety that is dished up steaming hot and moist most nights.
A mostly domestic wine list could be a bit more inclusive and less marked up, but it is serviceable. Fusionistas might like to choose one of the dozen premium sakes including Renaissance Kanzawa.
There are Asian beers such as Tsingtao, of course, and, for those who like that kind of thing, a menu of exotic cocktails including a not-too-sweet lychee-tini made with Sho-Chiku Bai sake, vodka, lychee syrup and plump little balls of fruit.
I've become a fan of the faintly flowery chrysanthemum tea served in fine ivory-colored china and refreshed every 15 minutes or so.
The bill can easily get out of hand here, especially for those who like to drink, but the tab is nothing compared to what I've paid at Mr. Chow in Beverly Hills.
Of course, the celebs have not yet discovered this spot. Let's hope they never do.
Hours
dim sum 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. daily; dinner 5:30 p.m.-midnight Sunday-Thursday, 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Friday-SaturdayDetails
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Location
- Current 75.2 °F
- It's a beach day
- Head to South Pointe
